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Week of August 20, 2006
"In the Kitchen":
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A Bite of Baltimore - Baltimore Foodies Interview Series

Chef Edward Kim – Executive Chef, Saffron  -  www.saffronbaltimore.com

Before starting, please include a short biography of yourself. This could include where you were born, studied, are currently working, your title, worked before, anything.

Before we start, could you please give a short history of yourself and a snapshot of some of the other places you’ve worked? I was born in Korea and moved to the united states shortly thereafter, approximately 3years old. We moved to Columbus Georgia. After Georgia, the family moved to NYC where my dad was able to secure a dry cleaning business. I decided to go into culinary after my 1st year experience in law was unfavorable. Being in a kitchen environment was always a natural fit w/ me in college. My first job out of law school was that of a dishwasher. Fortunately, my employer was Jean George Vongerichten who was just about to open Vong, located on 3rd and 53rd. how wild was that?? Working for one of the future masters in this field. From dishwashing, I quickly progressed to prep, then to garde manger. I was at Vong for appx. 1 ½ years. With the recommendation of fellow line cooks at Vong, I attended the culinary institute of America. This I learned was a standard prerequisite to gain a foot hold in any legitimate kitchen in NYC. Even with a degree and significant experience, line cooks were willing to do anything to learn from the best kitchens of NY. It’s almost like the sellers market during the real estate froth of last 4 years. My other experiences as a line cook incl. Oceana, Picholine, Union Square Café, a Stagiaire at Nobu in Tribeca, Citronelle in DC, Chef de Cuisine at the Ritz Carlton in Pentagon City, Exec. Chef/co-owner of Soigné, Exec. Chef of Merkado in DC, Exec. Chef/partner of Saffron.

What and where did you eat last night? I was famished. Went to burger king at 11:50 and ordered 2 junior whoppers and value fries.

Who would you invite to your fantasy dinner party? I would invite all of my former masters from nyc. Rick moonen, Michael romano, terrence brennan, jojo (jean george vongerichten, matsuhara morimoto (exec. chef of nobu, back in the days) and nobuyuki matsuhisa.

What’s always in your fridge? Cold water

What is your favorite restaurant? Jean Georges in NYC

What food reminds you of childhood? Kimchee chigae (peasant style Korean kimchee stew w/ pork trims)

What food makes you think of holidays? Prime rib roast, jap chae (Korean style cellaphane noodle salad), bul gogi (bbq shaved rib eye), galbi(bbq short ribs)

What is your favorite foreign cuisine? Rustic, Parisian french (true peasant style country french)

What is your most used cookbook? Don’t use a cook book. I do have my CIA text book from school. It’s 1200 pages long, hard cover.

Iced tea or coffee? Coffee

Scrapple: love it or hate it? Hate it. I’m not a real fan of offal, reminds me of it.

Who’s your favorite TV chef? It was morimoto just b/c he was my exec. at Nobu before becoming iron chef Japanese. Now no one.

What would you have for your final meal? A tough one. Maybe mom’s Korean feast? An assortment of mom’s cooking for the holidays. All peasant Korean stuff.

What food do you dislike most? Vegetarians. Oops did I say vegetarians?? I meant standard cafeteria veggies (carrots, cauliflower, broccoli, etc.)

Favorite indulgence? Right now, expresso & hazelnut ciao bella gelatos mixed w/ a glass of champagne.

What’s the most memorable meal you’ve ever had? 10 course degustation at Jean Georges. The g.m, f&b director, hotel exec. of the Ritz Carlton Group, and myself went to Jean Georges. Remember having a ½ bottle of y’quem, romani conti ?? forgot the vintage.

How do you think that Baltimore restaurant scene has changed? I think the scene has changed dramatically from 2001 when I first arrived here. I think it is def. Going in the right direction.

Where do you see the Baltimore restaurant scene headed? I predict more upscale casual eateries, eclectic fortes (not too weird or fusiony) , American flavors that reflect today's society.

How does your restaurant fit into the Baltimore mix? I think saffron brings unusual tastes (in a positive manner, always that hmmm what was that flavor?? Don’t know but was great), latin flavors, rather it’s espagna, carribbean Spanish or central/south American latino.

When you opened your restaurant, what do you think it offered Baltimoreans that they didn’t all ready have? Great mix of flavors, never really subtle or blend. I’m not into organics or allowing the ingredients to speak for itself too much. I like flavors, usually big, interesting, synergies, contrasts but not polarizing yet has zen.

How do you define your menu? The forte of the restaurant is modern American w/ international flavors.

What ingredients are you using a lot of right now? I like to use seasonal ingredients as much as possible. The most common ingredient has to be some type of acidity. It could be from vinegar, fruit or alcohol or all of the above. Different acidity combinations wields different flavors. The trick is to use what and how much?? And rather or not to use sugar or a liquid sweetener to balance it or even should one use a reduction technique?? All these questions can only be answered by some one who has true discipline, training and credibility's. Is not as easy as opening a food & wine magazine or going on-line to food network .com.

Are there any ingredients that you tend to avoid? I do not like old bay.

Do you cook often at home? no

What foods/ingredients could you not live without? I need coffee, fresh squeeze o.j. and pinots.

Where do you eat in Baltimore? I eat family meal/breakfast at Saffron for caloric reasons. Other then that, I try to get my kimchee fix at the local Korean eatery. I think it’s called ujung.

What’s your favorite comfort food? If so, what is it? Hmm any type of cassoulet or stew. Anything from pot au feu to fresh Tokyo style ramen.

Do you have a favorite snack food? If so, what is it? Sorry don’t snack.

When it comes to food, what do you think makes Baltimore special? The all mighty blue crabs.

 

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